Lochnagar 13-12-12
Getting back from work
last night at around 2030 I checked the forecast to find that the
next day was going to be the last day of good weather before high
winds and blizzards came in from the west. I got in touch with about
half a dozen people to find that they were all working or had other
commitments so I was on my own. Conditions for climbing in Scotland
can be unpredictable at the best of time let a lone this early in the
season so Lochnagar was by far the best option for a day trip from
Montrose. in my opinion it is the finest mountain East of the A9 and
seems to hold the snow well compared to most mountains in the vast
area south of the Cairngorm's.
I left at about 0745
and headed over the Cairn o'Mount road into Deeside. It was very cold
which is generally good thing when it comes to climbing as all the
rock and ice is solid. I got to the car park at around 0910 and
headed off along the snowy track up through the forest and beyond
towards the top of the pass at which point the path leads up to the
col below the Meikle Pap. upon reaching the col the view of the
cliffs were fantastic. they were very snow plastered although the
snow appeared to be thin on the lower reaches of the corie.
cutting down into the
coire there was a lot of deep powder snow that made the boulder field
a bit of a minefield and working my way towards the Mountain Rescue
post was very time and effort consuming. I stopped at the MRT post
for a bit and got some food. I seen little point in putting crampons
on at this point as the snow on the rocks ahead should be ice free
like those I had already crossed. crossing the large boulder field to
gain the lower reaches of the gully was nothing short of a nightmare
but only took around 20 minutes before I was at the foot of the snow
cone that forms at the foot of the gully.
The gully I was
climbing is the Black Spout. it would be a suitable candidate for the
finest Grade I gully in Scotland. It is a straightforward snow climb
that can have an awkward cornice exit in heavy conditions. about half
way up the gully splits into two branches. I had been up the main
gully which is the Right hand branch some years ago as one of my
first winter routes so I wanted to have a look at the Left hand
branch.
I stopped at the last
rocky outcrop before the gully proper, got out my axes and put on my
crampons. Two guys at this point were behind me and had stopped at
the MRT post to gear up. I headed on up the gully, the snow in the
lower reaches was fantastic! the front points of my crampons were
biting in solidly into the crispy neve.
upon reaching the
junction of the 2 branches the guys were now at the foot of the
gully below me. I moved off into the left hand branch and was met by
a very short icy pitch where the snow was very thin and the gully
steepened. a few easy but careful moves and I was up onto crispy neve
again, I followed this to the top of the gully and exited onto the
plateau.
During my accent of the
gully it had begun lightly snowing and I was now in a thick mist.
everything looked white apart from occasional rocks. I had no
inclination to go out to the summit of the Munro again so instead
focused on finding the top of the Right hand branch to descend. I
turned right and kept an awareness of where I was in relation to the
cliff-line. I came across an opening but it was far too steep and not
wide enough to be the gully I was looking for. continuing along I
crossed over several sets of footprints and then came across the wide
basin at the top of the Black spout. due to the lean conditions there
were no cornice difficulties and I descended easily down the gully.
the snow in the right
hand branch was very loose and unconsolidated but was still easy to
descend. I reached the Junction at the same time the pair of
climbers I had seen below me did. I told them that the Left hand
branch was in better condition and had a chat with them before
continuing down. I went all the way down to the MRT post when I
stopped to take my crampons off. beyond this the going was slow as I
had to ascend the deep powder slope that was strewn with boulders. at
one point my left foot got jammed after dropping about a meter and i
had to dig myself out which was amusing.
By the time I reached
the col the weather was closing in more. the cliffs where now almost
totally immersed in cloud that was growing darker. I hadn't done
the Corbett Conachcraig so decided to go up that after reaching the
top of the track. while ascending up the from the pass I noticed the
two guys some way behind me, I’m assuming they opted to go round
the top of the cliffs rather than descend the gully. from the Corbett
I descended back onto the track and then followed it back to the car
park. getting back to the car at around 1530.
Conditions are looking
good considering how early in the season it is. hopefully get some
weather in January to match!
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