Torridonian Perfection
If you were to ask some hill walkers mountaineers or climbers which of Scotland's many
mountains is the finest you can expect a wide range of answers however some will re-occur more than others. Liathach is almost
certain to be one of the more prevalent answers. Even the name
'Liathach' radiates a powerful almost demonic sound and driving down
Glen Torridon and being faced with her impressive bastions it seems a
fitting title.
Due to the Fickle
nature of Scottish Winters it can be hard to get good conditions or
fine weather and thus often it comes down to grasping opportunity's and your luck. I had been staying with Russell and his Family at
their cottage in Aviemore. The three days previous had taken me up a
few routes around the Northern Cairngorm's and a solo ascent of Ledge
route on Ben Nevis. The weather had gradually improved and as we
were descending from the Cairngorm plateau after a days climbing, the view ahead of us was something special. The weather had settled and
we could see the countless peaks of the north and west glistening in
the snow beneath a wide blue sky. The forecast for the next day was
worthy of a mountain like Liathach and warranted the journey to it's
flanks and more specifically, the long journey back to Montrose
afterwards.
Defrosting the car and
leaving Aviemore at around seven we travelled northwards. As the day
broke it became apparent that the forecast similar to a perfect
alpine day was spot on. We drove up to the car park across from the
Ling hut and got ready.
We started up the Coire
Dubh Mor path and followed it for a bout a mile before cutting west
onto a series of slabs. The slabs made for enjoyable and easy height
gain up to the edge of a large rock band that skirts the Eastern edge
of the mountain. From here we followed scraps of tracks over rough ground up towards the start of the ridge. The weather was phenomenal
the clear skies that had brought about the frosty morning now gave
way to a kingdom of blue and allowed the sun to bear down upon us
with not a hint of a breeze. We eventually reached the ridge after
carefully scrambling our way through some rock bands and small icy snow fields. Seeing that the ridge ahead had a lot of snow cover we donned crampons and headed west along the crest.
As we reached the first summit the view became nothing short of spectacular, not least of that along the ridge to the highest point 'Spidean a' Choire Leith'. We had a break here and attempted to take in our awesome surroundings. It was the first time I could think of that I had sunglasses, a T-shirt and crampons on! It was a far cry from the wet cold crevices and whiteout conditions that so often typify Scottish Winter Climbing.
Moving off, the snow was perfect, a solid neve forming knife edge crests over monstrous drops, all the time over the cloudless blue void above. This arete runs for about a kilometer and a half crossing various cols and summits before ending in a graceful push up Spidean a' Choire Leith. There were ski tracks of the south side of the Cornice which would have intrigued us more had we not seen skiers rapidly descending a gully on Stag rocks the previous day.
By the time we reached
the first Munro a light breeze had got up. the route continues down a
snow slope to a col that marks the start of the Am Fasarinen
pinnacles. These had a varying cover of snow that became
progressively thinner as we approached the western end. Variations of
snow, ice, rock and turf made these interesting but not hard enough to
pitch, which was fine as we didn't have a rope with us!
Before the decent off
the final pinnacle we took our crampons off as it was mainly bare
rock and the sun had sufficiently melted the snow to make them unnecessary for the ridge beyond. the ridge up to the final top,
Mullach an Rathain, was non-technical and not exposed so we moved
quickly towards the second Munro. I decided to run down so that i
could walk/run/hitch my way to the car which was five kilometers up
the glen. just coming off the ridge and descending into the coire i
seen that someone before me had glisaded down. Doing likewise saved
much of the effort required for the steep descent and i ran down the
rest. i walked along most of the road and eventually got a lift from
some french tourists about halfway to the car park.
All in all i don't
think i have ever had a better or more perfect day in the mountains,
it had it all, beautiful views, neve aretes, warm scrambley rock all
with mind blowing drops not to mention a bit of glisading. The
combination of perfect weather and perfect conditions on one of the
finest mountains in Scotland if not anywhere surely means its up
there with the best days us who spend time in the mountains can hope
for.
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