The Steeple

Emerging from lockdown back in June and it looking like we were restricted to Scotland for the season, Dave and myself were discussing summer goals. He mentioned Steeple but I was sceptical. From what I had read and heard it was solid at the grade. At this point I had never even been on an E2 so a 200m E2 5c on the mighty Shelterstone’s Cairngorm granite was an intimidating thought. I infected him with my pessimism and that was apparently the end of that. Fast forward two months and I had led my first E2's. I was feeling confident and strong so was full of optimism. I suggested Steeple to him and with a full role reversal, he expressed his doubts. He soon regained his optimism and we made a plan for the following week, protecting our newly found confidence with common caveats such as "we’ll get a really early start", "if it's too hard we can just bail" and "It’s probably wet anyway but we can just have a look".

Myself starting up pitch 5

When the day came we got our early start and headed in towards Coire an t-Sneachda. By the time we were descending Coire Domhain the low morning sun was reflecting strongly off Loch Avon and the slabs of the Shelterstone. The Shelterstone really epitomizes the hidden beauty of the Cairngorms. From the inhabited surrounding Glens this huge range can often look bleak and rounded especially when compared with the dramatic roadside scenery in the west and northwest highlands. Yet once some effort is invested in reaching these inner corries they readily reveal their endless intricacies amongst the vastness. The Cairngorms are a place that I have grown to appreciate more and more over recent years. Within their bounds alone there is a lifetime of climbing and exploring to be had.

The Loch Avon Basin

We approached the base of the route to find the lower corners looked a bit damp. We were here now however and the midges put paid to any serious discussions. I started off up the first pitch which followed a slabby corner through some overlaps. Dave led through with another section of corner into a sodding wet jam crack which was good banter. This initial corner system provided a pretty full on start to the climbing and was no push over. From here I led an easy pitch up broken steps to the foot of a steep slabby wall. This was the start of the crux 5c pitch. 

The Shelterstone

One of the main factors in our reasoning that we had a fair chance of getting up this route was our personal strengths and weaknesses. While Steeple is quite sustained there are only two pitches that would probably be considered E2, The 5c slab pitch and the 5b corner pitch near the top. I’m good at corners and pretty weak at slabs. Slabs are thankfully one of Dave’s strongest styles so the aforementioned slab pitch was his lead. I was confident I could get up the corner as I had seen it when I climbed Needle so the slab pitch was really the key to whether or not we would be successful. 

Dave led on up. The route finding was tricky and at first he cut right too early. He soon found the correct way though and made steady progress up to the crux step. He reported the crux foot hold was wet which is obviously less than ideal. He made the move and then gained the ramp above before disappearing beyond.

Dave on the Crux

It was my turn to follow. I steadily made it up to the crux without incident. The crux itself constituted a step right onto said wet foothold with not much in the way of other holds. I also had the amalgamated rucksack which really didn't help matters. After a bit of going to and fro trying to work out the move, the rope was pulling me in the direction of the traverse but I couldn't make the move without going totally off balance. I looked below me to where I would fall and it just had the potential to end badly. Even if I somehow didn't hurt myself in the pendulum I would probably have had to prussik up just to regain a section of the wall before I could start climbing from again. In the end I chose to hold onto an in situ nut rather than risk the fall. I made the move and headed up onto the ramp, then up to Dave who was living the dream at the belay. A brilliant lead by Dave and one that put us now over halfway up the route.

Dave enjoying the view

I led the next pitch up some cracks and flakes to the foot of the corner and then brought Dave up. The corner is vertical and well protected with cracks. I started up and before long ended up in a totally committing strenuous layback. The gear was good however it was fiddly to get in. This was most likely just because of the pull my arm had to exert to keep my feet on the vertical granite. I noisily battled my way up inch by inch placing frequent cams until eventually the corner eased slightly and I could bridge out my legs. From here the climbing was great and I worked my way up to the belay then brought Dave up.

Myself enjoying the Corner pitch

Dave on the Final Pitch

When Dave emerged at the belay he didn't have much to say and looked a bit strung out. I wasn't sure if he hated me, all of mankind or just himself. Seconding that strenuous layback with the rucksack must have been emotional. He handed me over the rucksack and we sorted the rack out. He was all for getting the last pitch over with and easily dispatched it before bringing me up to join him on the top.

On the Top

This was really the ascent of the summer for us and showed what was possible even after a trainingless lockdown. While it was no doubt hard, in the end we got up it with minimal fuss and in a respectable time.

Carn Etchachan