Sticil Face - Winter on the Shelterstone

Two days after Labyrinth Doug and myself climbed a direct variant of Lochnagar’s ‘Tough Brown Ridge Direct’. Beyond this we were running out of ideas. The routes we wanted in Lochnagar needed cycles to consolidate, a further fruitless trip into the Dubh Loch had shown us it was now stripped out and the west was buried in fresh snow. Perhaps feeling mentally tired we found ourselves in Aviemore being very indecisive about the next day. Eventually more out of exasperation than inspiration, we settled on having a look in at Sticil Face on the Shelterstone. We weren’t sure of the conditions but having a look was an option and probably our best one especially with a good forecast. My first and only time climbing on the Shelterstone was back in February 2019 when we climbed the Needle (Dutch Luck - The Needle). Along with the summer classics this awesome cliff also hosts quite a few starred winter routes, Sticil Face being one of them and probably the most popular.

Starting the Traverse pitch (Photo Doug)

The next morning I only made it as far as the Ciste car park before having to abandon my car. There had been snowfall overnight and the road had not yet been cleared properly. Doug came back down for me and we got going at around 0630 a bit later than intended. We chose to approach by descending into Coire Raibeirt as both the Goat Track and Coire Domhain could have been sketchy in the conditions. We overtook a team heading in the same way who also had their eye on Sticil. As we crossed the Loch Avon basin we could see that the crux had formed so the route was a goer.

Coire Raibeirt

We geared up at the first belay, Doug led out a long easy traverse before putting in a belay round a corner. I led through a pitch of snow ice which had good placements but pretty poor gear. Reaching a wall to the left of the much celebrated crux ice pitch, I started digging out a belay. I found some good cracks and a peg about half a meter below me. In leaner conditions this must be at chest/head height. The crux looked pretty fat although not any more so than some other photos online show it. I imagine it forms very often and well because it is such a choke point to a large drainage basin above.

The Second Pitch (Photo Doug)

Doug reached the belay and commented that it looked quite easy compared to its reputation and seemed a bit disappointed that the good conditions may rob him of any challenge. His fears were unwarranted as it proved to be solid at the grade. He continued on up a chimney, which was completely choked with ice, and belayed above. The pair we passed on the approach were behind us now which made the belays a bit social, a pleasant change from most of our days out. They were up from the Lake District for a week and were competent and pretty chilled.

Doug on the Crux

From the top of the chimney I led out a long traversing pitch up easy but insecure ground. The snow conditions were not great and neither was the protection meaning I moved methodically. Doug led through for a similar pitch to the base of the final chimney, ignoring a old peg at it’s entrance in favour of better gear just inside, a decision he would come to regret. 

Top of the Ice Choked Chimney (Photo: Doug)

As I followed up I got a good view of the chimney. Chimneys are my favourite feature to climb and I liked the look of this one however once I started up, it was to prove harder than it looked. It was also buried in snow. I worked my way up, digging out placements and gear from ever increasing volumes of powder which subsequently funnelled down onto Doug. At the last bit of visible rock I found myself employing a handjam in a crack while my other arm hacked relentlessly away at a Patagonian cornice. Once one section of powder was cleared sufficiently for me to gain a little more height I began working on the next section and so on until I eventually topped out onto solid granite.

Doug running it out towards the Final Chimney

During the walk out the weather deteriorated. Clouds rolled in from the west and the wind intensified. Before dropping back in the bowl of Core Cas we were treated to a stunning moody sunset. Overall it was a very satisfying day. the Route turned out to have both ice and mixed pitches that were solid at the grade and there was also a lot of stunning and atmospheric mountaineering ground. A route to be savoured on a good day for sure and worthy of its four stars.

Sunset and the Fiacaill Ridge (Photo Doug)