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Frendo Spur

On Sunday morning Dave and myself were descending into the Vallée Blanche with our eyes on a popular rock route on the Pyramid du Tacul. We had just had two nights at the Cosmiques hut preceded by an ascent of the fine Bernezat Spur on the Tour Ronde. It had been quite hard and I was recovering from a cold so a rest day had been a good idea and we felt better for it. Seeing the pyramid with a few teams already on it we quickly abandoned our plans and after a few minutes indecision and we hatched a plan for the famous Frendo spur.


The Frendo is a 1200m buttress on the north face of the Aiguille du Midi. Its one of the most famous routes in the Alps and is generally comprised of 800m rock followed by 400m of snow and ice, usually climbed over two days with a Bivouac at the top of the rock section. Climbers on the route can often be viewed from the cable car which unfortunately is not running. This complicates logistics a bit as its normal practice to take the cable car up in the morning…

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