Point Five Gully - Ben Nevis

The SMC guidebook claims that Point Five Gully is the most famous ice gully in the world. This much sought after route forms the 300m reentrant between Observatory Ridge and Buttress topping out pretty much right on the summit of Ben Nevis, Scotland's highest mountain. It can make a great late season route when it can contain a lot of water ice. This can make the climbing a little harder but also a lot more secure and pleasant. As restrictions started to ease from Scotland's second lockdown it looked like it would be in just such a condition.

On the Rogue Pitch (Photo Lauren)

Edd, Lauren and myself left the North Face car park at 0330. This may seem early but if a team was there before us then we'd have to climb something else to avoid having chunks of ice down coming down on us from above. It's fame and reputation means that Point Five can attract a lot of traffic and I've heard stories of climbers turning up in the middle of the night to find people already climbing it. As it's pretty much light by 0500 at this time of year it also just makes sense to start early although it doesn't always feel like that when the alarm goes off. We headed up through the forest and then up the path towards the CIC hut. The only sign of life was headtorches up on Carn Mor Dearg whom we assumed had left even earlier than us to catch the sunrise. By the time we reached the hut it was light enough to put our headtorches off and we could make out the Ben's impressive features.

Heading up past Observatory Ridge on the Approach

After a short stop we continued the approach towards Observatory gully where we geared up. Upwards from here was neve all the way to the base of the route which brought our calves to life. Nearing the start of the route as the Alpenglow lit up Echo Wall, we got a belay in on the right and I racked up to lead off. The first pitch was a fan of ice with a steepening before the next belay was reached. I took the steeping direct where the spindrift channel had formed a bit of a bulge. I had to use the sides over the top of this for good axes which made the move quite interesting. While negotiating this bulge I also got my first taste of the days spindrift, Something Point Five is famous for.

First Pitch (photo Edd)

Pulling up through to where the angle eased, I set up a belay at the stance before the narrows and brought Edd and Lauren up. Neither of them had climbed much ice before but made light work of some tricky tech 5 ground. Once we were all done with hot aches and belay faff I led off up the next pitch, The Narrows. This was a narrow chimney with near vertical sections of water ice. Once again I was bombarded with spindrift but eventually I made it up to where the angle eased off then entered a steep sided gully. I brought Edd and Lauren up and we got ready for the crux third pitch, the famous Rogue pitch.

Edd arriving at the Fourth Belay

The Route above comes out of the steep walled gully and kicks up into an ice bulge that is climbed on the left. As I moved up the wall the ability to bridge out my weight was eventually lost forcing me to take the final section face on. It didn't last long and a couple of upward moves seen me over the top of the wall. This provided me with a sharp reminder of what steep water ice feels like. A bittersweet taste in a winter of lost possibilities due to Covid restrictions with this being my final ice route of the season. 

Lauren on the Fourth Pitch

Once we were all up above the Rogue pitch Edd took over the lead and seen us the remaining 200m to the summit. The next pitch contained a fair bit of tech 4 and then a couple of long pitches involved us moving off the belay to give Edd more rope. Before long we reached the sunny plateau to a brisk wind. We descended Tower Gully and then down Observatory gully.

Edd Leaving the final Belay

I was worried that Point Five wouldn't live up to it's reputation and hype but in the end I was pleasantly surprised. It's an absolutely fantastic route and probably the best I've done at it's grade.




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