Lord Berkeley's Seat - An Teallach

So far this winter I'd had some good days out with generally good weather and decent conditions, but the fleeting nature so common in our winters had meant that my activity had been restricted to venues which hold predictable conditions. When Doug suggested we take a punt on An Teallach I was sold. Traverse aside, I'd never climbed on what many consider to be Scotland's finest mountain. I set off from Braemar not long after the call and pulled into the layby at Corriehallie at around 2230.

Lord Berkeley's Seat with us on pitch 3 (Photo Dave Kerr)

By 0600 we were heading up through the rhododendron jungle aiming for Toll an Lochain. There was a rough path, after which we followed a streamline before avoiding a gorge and finally skirting round into the eastern flank of the massive corrie. At one point we caught sight of some headtorches behind us. With dawn, the impressiveness of our surroundings became apparent, the many towers and pinnacles sporting steep faces and culminating in a rugged skyline.

Toll an Lochain

After a brief stop we decided to have a look at Lord Berkeley's Seat. The base of the route sits high on the mountain two thirds of the way up Lord's gully. It apparently only requires good frozen turf. Lord Berkeley's seat is a well known tower between the Corrag Bhuidhe pinnacles and  the Munro, Sgurr Fiona. The route climbs its steep north east face by a meandering line though some very impressive terrain. The guidebook states that it is 'easier than it looks' and looking up it the towering overhanging wall, we hoped it would be.

Lord Berkeley's seat is the the Black triangular pinnacle in the centre of the skyline

After ascending a boulder field we geared up at the foot of Lord's gully. Once we got going we took turns breaking trail. We were thankful for the previous days thaw and freeze. Although the snow wasn't consolidated in any way to ease progress, it was at least safe from avalanche risk. As we approached the foot of the buttress we decided I should have the first pitch as it looked the most amenable of the four and I was having issues with an arm injury.

Approaching up Lord's Gully

I set off on an ice axe belay after gearing up and taking a couple of painkillers. We started right at the toe of the buttress and the first section required some balancy steep climbing with very little good turf or hooks. I was halfway up the initial wall with no decent gear and was beginning to question my life choices. I was mainly wondering whether it was sensible pushing on while the protection options were this grim so early on. When I found a good nut placement I pushed on and found the rest of the pitch was better protected. This first pitch winded its way up turfy walls and ledges with some great climbing. As the end of my pitch approached, I veered right to find the route ahead.

Some Balancy climbing right off the first belay (Photo D.Bartholomew)

Pitch two was Doug's lead and from here the route became harder and a lot more defined. He traversed hard right to a downclimb and then traversed some more onto a slab via a tricky chimney. He then climbed the slab to reach a series of walls and ledges at which point he was out of sight. I was steadily feeding out rope when I heard him shriek. I waited on the rope going tight but it never came. One of his axes had ripped but his other had caught him. He finished his pitch setting up a belay just above then brought me up to him.

Sgurr Fiona and the Beinn Dearg group beyond

From here the route traverses left again. Everything looked improbable and my hope was that by traversing left, one of the corner systems above would look amenable. At least the painkillers had done their job and my arm wasn't bothering me. The situation was incredible. We were perched on a narrow ledge surrounded by overhanging terrain. The day had turned into perfection with the sun bathing the snowclad northwest highlands and laying it out before us. Between the gaps we could see as far as Quinag, Suliven and Ben Klibreck. As I traversed further and further left looking for a way above that my mortal abilities could allow me to climb we got a shout from the Ridge. It was Dave, a friend of Doug's, out getting photos for a new guidebook and expecting to see his friends in our place. He kindly sent us some brilliant photos he got of us. 

Doug on the slab, Pitch 2

I reached at surveyed the final corner system before the ledge ended at the crest. It looked hard but I thought I could climb it. The protection wasn't amazing but I took some time to organize it as best I could and was reasonably happy with the situation. I pulled up the steep wall and reached a hook behind a flake. I tested it sharply and it came away resting on my shoulder. I managed to step down and shouted below before letting it fall to its new resting place a hundred or so meters below in Lord's gully. Thankfully its demise had revealed another hook and I was able to make the move. I was now on very steep ground and was able to throw in some more gear. I followed the corner via some flakes and eventually made it up to the crest. I found the climbing hard but superb. I trended right and began to get bothered with rope drag when the route swung back left. I was also down to one extender. I got a good belay and brought Doug up.

The Traverse of Pitch 3 (Photo D.Bartholomew)

Doug got up to me and got ready for what would hopefully be the final pitch. It was getting late and he put his headtorch on his helmet before he left. He finished off the corner system then followed an easier ramp to a notch in the ridge. A steep bulging chimney provided a sting in the tail and he topped out just as the last of the days light was leaving us. As I belayed I seen a few headtorches over at the top of the Ghlas Thuill cliffs. This turned out to be a strong team making the second ascent of 'The Wailing Wall' (IX 9). I followed up Doug's pitch by headtorch and topped out. The half moon was bright and lit up the snow clad massif of An Teallach. We could see as far as the streetlights of Stornoway.

High in the corner system of pitch 3 as light fades (Photo D.Bartholomew)

We nipped up to the summit of Lord Berkeley's seat before starting the descent. We headed towards Sgurr Fiona, skirting its summit and then down to the col before Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill. We had Dave's footprints to follow and I had seen him skirting the second munro. We reached the col to the north and descended into Glas Tholl. Eventually we reached the rough path to the rhododendron jungle and the road.

Doug approaching the belay at the end of the 3rd pitch, Lord's gully below.

This was one of those days out I'll never forget. The route was brilliant with every pitch offering sustained interest. Just being on An Teallach on such a perfect day and night is an experience in itself. I am surprised that the route does not receive more ascents being on such a well known feature and only requiring good frozen turf. Given its height I'd imagine it will be quite reliable. It's also as good as any mixed route I've ever done and I'll certainly be keeping An Teallach on my radar from now on.

Lord Berkeley's seat illuminated by headtorch